I couldn't use my special mixing drill attachment for such a small batch, but a wooden chopstick works fine. So I mixed up a two-ounce batch of epoxy (always pour the thicker epoxy into the thinner hardener) and mixed for five whole minutes, scraping down the sides. This was my first time taking on such a big, unforgiving epoxy project, so I wanted to practice to make sure I had prepared for all the problems that could occur. Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when working with epoxy! Work in a well-ventilated area and/or wear an organic fume respirator. I stored mine in an upper cabinet in the kitchen for a day to ensure it was over 75 degrees the whole way though, and measured its temperature with my multimeter's IR thermometer. Not only does the room and wood need to be 75 degrees or warmer, but your epoxy should also be acclimated to the same. If you've been sanding in the same space, wait at least 12 hours after vacuuming for the dust to settle before doing any epoxy work. Since I don't have any outdoor space and I have a cat and dog with hair, I built a makeshift dust tent using plastic drop cloth, masking tape, and a few chairs. The table needs to cure for 72 hours, and anything that lands on it in the first 10 will stick. So your cold garage might be out unless you have some space heaters handy! Second, think temperature: this epoxy will only cure properly at 75 degrees or more. However do not use cardboard alone, as the epoxy can soak through! In case the plastic tears at all, the cardboard can absorb some drips. I laid down cardboard under plastic sheeting. Since you'll be pouring the epoxy over the edge, you need to prepare for lots of epoxy to land on the floor. Get your workspace set up! Don't skimp on proper prep, or you'll end up with rock-hard epoxy permanently stuck to your floor. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases you make using my affiliate links. To keep up with what I'm working on, follow me on YouTube, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest, and subscribe to my newsletter. Follow all the manufacturer's instructions and safety warnings. This project is very messy and uses materials capable of causing permanent property damage and bodily harm. dust-free curing area above 75 degrees F.stir sticks and/or mixing drill accessory.Liquin or other finish for raw steel legs.polyurethane wood finish and foam brushes.wood slab, reclaimed wood, or other planar surface.I was told the spalting (pigmented ring patterns caused by fungi) made this wood very desirable.īefore beginning the transformation from slice to table, this cookie dried out in my parents' barn for about two years. This slab of maple came from my parents' property in Connecticut. So I decided to use bartop epoxy resin to finish the whole piece.Įpoxy resin doesn't stand up to high heat, so use coasters for coffee and cocoa and never put a hot pan or dish directly on the table. This live-edge piece of wood had some holes on top that I wanted to fill, and something had to be done to hold the bark on. Turn a slice of raw wood into a durable coffee table! This guide follows my process for finishing a cross-cut maple "cookie" slab with epoxy resin and attaching hairpin legs.
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